Pata-Scotia

When I was little, father Glenner always used to say "Slow down! You're rushing." Spilled milk, cupboards left unopen, scrappings that missed the organic bin - all were the result of my rushing. I guess I've always had trouble slowing down. I try to breathe and drink in each moment with intention and consciousness, but sometimes I move to the next too quickly.

This week has been a delightful deceleration after several months of constant motion. I decided spontaneously to take the Navimag ferry from here in Puerto Natales, in the south of Chile, to head up north. A 4-day passenger ferry which weaves through salty seas and timeless fjords of a battered Patagonian coast. We will be living in a hallway of fish-hold bunk beds among other budgeting explorers. I'm itching to be on the water with the cold wind and eerie night fog. The only dilemma is that the ferry departs only once a week. So I had one week here. One week to learn to slow down but still feel productive.

Chew slowly, walk intentionally, breathe deeply. Relax. I spent my first day cozied up in the window of a vegetarian cafe, reading in the late autumn light. The low season has begun so seldom did a customer wander in off the windy streets for a caffeinated refuge. I made friends with the owner, a backpacker who fell in love twice - once with this place and another with his wife - and never went home. Jeremy gave me a glass of wine to finish off the bottle; the windows would be boarded up the next day for the 6 month quiet of winter. Bummer. The locally-sourced food and words shared every few page-turns was exactly what I was looking for.

Jeremy's friend had a pile of used books for sale at the front counter. One was from one of my favourite authors, another a book I've been wanting to read for years, and all in english! And to top, the money went to a charity for street dogs. As I left the cottage-like retreat, my backpack loaded with books to entertain my 4 day nautical adventure, I was greeted by my favourite street dog Rocky. How fitting! I named him personally. A bulky German shepard who I swear remembers me every time. He drops a rock at your feet and waits with great anticipation until you throw it down the sidewalk.

He accompanied me home in the cold navy night, as did a fresh young pup eager to play along. Rocky wasn't having it. I felt a little sorry for the little guy when Rocky snapped at him, but I have my loyalties.

Rocky takes his game to the sea. What a guy. 

Omar, the hostel owner leant me his bike and I took off for a coastal ride in yesterday's sun. Amazing how far you can be from home but still find it in the smallest of things, piles of fishing rope, cracked and peeling boats and the way the wind whips up a delicious batch of salty sea air. I rode down an old dirt road along the sea, passing curious stray dogs while fighting gusts of autumn wind on an over sized bike. It was perfect. It felt so much like Nova Scotia with the addition of distant snow-capped mountains. My my heart was glad and hurt for home a bit.

Someone should break the news to the owner of the boat on the left, that his boat sank.... 6 years ago. 

The rest of the time has been passed with the Swedish crew. We made a delicious Mexican meal of veggie fajitas and a taco salad. We've made great use of Omar's movie collection, although his selection of dark and action-packed movies has given my imagination a ticket to ride. We went grocery shopping after watching ''The Road' - a world apocalypse type movie - which made the deserted streets of Puerto Natales subject to invasion by cannabalistic gangs and desperate limbless wanderers in my overly active mind.

But other than that, things have been bright. I spend much time by the sea watching an amazing assortment of birds fight the waves. I never realized how beautiful swans are. They almost mimic the mountains, pure white with a swatch of black and grey feathers hidden at the back and strikingly red beaks. I believe my tea addiction has returned also. There are worse things. Tomorrow we board the Navigmag and ... well, essentially, do a nautical version of the last 6 days. I have my four books and notepad ready. Hope my sea legs are good to go as well. Now to the grocery store to clear out the wine supply.