If the shoe Fitz...

Holy smoked sardines, what a crazy three days we've had here in Patagonia. I've been proved wrong. Previously I believed that glaciers were slow moving, relatively underwhelming natural phenomenons. Correction: Perito Moreno glacier was the most amazing wonder of the natural world I have ever seen. Not only is it an unearthly shade of blue, but massive chunks larger than houses crash 75 meters into the lake below at least one or twice an hour, ringing out like gunshot. The whole glacier cracks and groans like the sound of lightning hitting earth. In complete awe.

We took the night bus to El Chalten, three hours North to see the Fitz Roy, the FROY - a 'Land Before Time' mountain range piled on top of eachother like drip sandcastles we used to make as kids. It looks as though it could crumble at any moment. Carrying a box full of food, cucumbers and carrots peeled in the bus terminal bathroom (hygienic), we got comfy on the bus and made sure to break the only two rules posted above the driver: DO NOT EAT OR TAKE OFF YOUR SHOES. That's the only reason I take buses. Luckily there was nothing against drinking beer so we made sure to take advantage of that.

The moon rose above the eerie Patagonian landscape. Deserted lands lined by low mountains and meandering blue rivers set aglow by a full moon. As we approached El Chalten we saw the glowing silhouettes of the majestic Fitz Roy range, tall, elegant and jagged - dominating the clearest night sky. I fell in love with one mountain that had the twisted elegance of a swan. The night disguised a black cliff face and the rest of the mountain, covered in snow, created a fairy-tale peak twisting up towards the heavens. We discovered today the peak is called "SOLO" or 'alone' in spanish. Perfect.

We got rained out yesterday on our first climb to see the Froy. Soggy bottomed and wind-burned, we turned back before the final descent. Today however, was a gift from the universe. It started out by spotting two condors soaring above the cliffs outside our hostel. You can literally walk out of town with your pack to get to the trail head. The sun was warm and lit up all the snowy peaks, casting brilliant shadows between the tall forests on the trail. We wound between glacier fed rivers, barren sandy plains, stunted-tree marshes and old-growth forests. The fall colours were incredible - goldens, deep hues of red and orange. It felt like home and the scents of damp leaves, oregano and sweet forest floor reminded me October in Canada. That makes sense as it is currently autumn in the Southern hemisphere. Also reminded us both how incredible Canada is and how excited we are to explore our own country when we return. Now more than ever, I believe I live in the most beautiful country in the world.

We reached the base where a glacier runs into a high mountain lake, grey-blue and white-tipped with the wind. Had a wee nap on a lakeside rock and took in the sun. A sunset bus ride back to El Calafate was equally as inspiring as the first. Yerba mate in hand and a bag of chocolate, we watched a red glow rise from behind the humble mountains, unable to decide if it was the rise of a harvest moon or setting of a lazy sun.   I think not knowing is best.

Also - sorry Argentina but I still think Cabernet Suavignon is better than Malbec, but RESPECT. Tomorrow off to Torres Del Paine - attempt number two, to watch the sun rise over the Torres (towers) there. Luckily tonight we are staying in a room with two others that are taking the same bus tomorrow morning. We figure that with four alarms set, we have a 60% chance of making the bus. Otherwise, I'm keeping my eyes out for cardboard for a new hitchiking sign. VAMOS A TORRES DEL PAINE, TENEMOS EMPANADAS!